2004-09-08T13:26:00.000-07:00

Spanish Wine Regions

RIOJA
The Rioja river valley in northeast Spain is the country's most prosperous and best-known table wine region. The area parallels the River Ebro, which runs south to the Mediterranean and is intersected by the smaller Rio Oja. The region is subdivided into three areas: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Baja. The Alta and Alavesa areas produce more aromatic, balanced wines. They have similar climates and soils and face each other across the northern stretch of the River Ebro, while the Rioja Baja lies downstream and is somewhat warmer, producing slightly lower acidity, less balanced wines. Of all Spanish regions, Rioja has been most directly influenced by the wine traditions of neighboring France. Eighty percent of Rioja's production is red, and the most respected wines are aged reds, but it also makes both young (joven) and barrel aged whites and rosés. For the Rioja reds, Tempranillo and Garnacha are the most important grapes, along with small amounts of Graciano, Mazuelo (Carineña) and others. In a tradition going back over a hundred years, Marqués de Riscal and a few other experimental vineyards are allowed to cultivate Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot vines here by special permission. The less common Rioja whites favor oak-aged Viura (Macabeo). Rioja has around 14,000 growers who tend fairly small vineyards that may be interspersed with other crops. Traditionally they have sold their grapes to the around one hundred merchants (bodegas) or the thirty cooperatives which vinify about 45% of the wines. Most of these are now equipped with stainless steel tanks and temperature control fermentation facilities.
PRIORAT
Priorat has an especially long history of wine making since at least the 12th century. Its poor, stony soil underlaid by slate and quartz planted with very old vines gives its established vineyards incredibly low yields of only 0.3 tons/acre. Perhaps because of the unbelievable concentration of their fruit, Priorat vineyards produce world class wines from the usually ordinary Grenacha and Carignan grapes. Surprisingly, these varietals -- elsewhere popular for rosés and light character reds -- engender big sturdy red wines with smooth, plentiful tannins, perfect for long bottle aging. The most recent trend amends local tradition by adding the French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah to newer vineyards; and also by aging new wines in new French rather than the more usual American barrels. The resulting wines have been described as richly concentrated but well-balanced, with strong tannins and high alcohol - both powerful and graceful. Priorat has also begun to offer some new dry whites and rosés (rosados) in the fresher international style.

BIERZO
Bierzo DO is in a sheltered valley on the north-western boundary of the province of León, in the autonomous region of Castilla y León. The region's name is 'El Bierzo' but the DO is simply 'Bierzo', formed by a collection of small towns dominated by the city of Ponferrada, which is the only major population centre. The area is sandwiched between the Cordillera Cantábrica and the Montes de León, its natural limits being the Sierras of Caurel and Ancares, the Aquilanos mountains and the Sierra of Jistredo. Bierzo is rich in water and is irrigated by many rivers such as the Sil, Ancares and Burbia. Mountain ranges shelter it from the excesses of continental climate and produce some of the most exciting landscapes (i.e. Las Médulas) in Continental Spain. From a wine production point of view, the region pivots between the winemaking centre and historical towns of Villafranca del Bierzo (to the west, dominating an area at one point contiguous with the Valdeorras DO in Galicia) and Cacabelos (to the east), the latter a neat and pretty town, albeit without the monumental architecture of Villafranca. The vineyards cover 7,500 hectares - of which about half have the DO classification - at altitudes of between 500m and 650m along the river valleys. Soils vary from alluvial at the lower (river) levels to slate in the highest, mountainous zones, but they are reasonably fertile, with bedrock at least 60cm deep over most of the region. There is some sand and sandy granite. The shelter provided by the mountains gives Bierzo a fairly temperate climate, with plenty of sunshine but less rain than neighbouring Galicia. Temperatures range from a summer high of 32ºC to a winter low of 1ºC with a year- round average of 13ºC. Average rainfall is 670mm and average sunshine 2,700 hours. The grape variety Mencía reigns supreme here where it occupies 62% of the vineyard and is the main red grape both here and over the border in Valdeorras. Recently it has been proved to be related to the Cabemet Franc and research is in progress to corroborate their equivalence. In any case, the clonal variation of Cabernet Franc is native to the area and has the potential to produce long lasting, high-quality, elegant wines.
MONTSANT
Created in August 2001, the Montsant DO is a new Catalan appellation of origin nailed in the judicial region of Priorat, which has been named after the most emblematic mountain located within it. Geographically it includes an area that encircles its quite famous neighbour DO. The capital of the Priorat region, Falset, has been included in the Montsant DO. The Montsant DO differs from that of its neighbour in few things, although the detractors of their inclusion in Priorat argue a dissimilarity that is not trivial. While in Priorat the black slate grounds predominate, 'llicoreras', these are much scarcer in Montsant where loose red sands prevail. The truth is that granitic and slate rocks form the soils' base. Otherwise, varietals, with predominance of red and white Garnacha and Cariñena, the scarce rain levels and low yields or the type of operation (small bodegas) are very similar. In any case Montsant had an entity of its own quite different from the rest of the Tarragona DO. As in nearby Priorat the most interesting wines of Montsant are dry reds. These are very concentrated, boast great hue and large alcohol contents. Mediterranean and with a vocation of becoming exclusive. Also here, plantations of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot are being carried out, combined with old Cariñena and Garnacha vines. Also interesting is the making of whites from Garnacha but, mainly, of new natural sweet reds of red Garnacha, loaded with fruit and velvety tannins.
CALATAYUD
The Appellation of Origin Calatayud is located to the west of the province of Zaragoza, within the historical Community of Aragón. It has a surface of 8,000 ha. under vines, which are distributed between 43 municipalities of the natural region of the Ebro Valley, in a zone framed by the mountainous formations that come off the Moncayo Massif and spreads around a complex fluvial network formed by the following tributaries of the Ebro: Jalón, Jiloca, Manubles, Mesa, Piedra and Ribota. Grapevine cultivation in the area goes some 2,200 years back in time and probably was introduced by Phoenicians who, along with Greeks and Romans, set the foundations for winemaking. The first written reference to the great quality of the region's wines was made on the Ist century A.D. by renowned historian and poet Marcus Valerius Martialis, who was born in the Roman city of Augusta Bílbilis, today known as Calatayud. At present, the native varieties being cultivated are mainly Garnacha Tinta, Macabeo, Tempranillo, Cariñena (Mazuelo) and
Garnacha Blanca, representing the cultural legacy of the many generations that have been painstakingly improving production techniques, selecting varieties and trying to transmit to future winemakers the very best of their knowledge. As of late, foreign varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot are being planted.
PENEDèS
The vital, active Penedès wine region is located in the province of Catalonia along the northeastern Mediterranean coast. Marine influence allows production of many different styles of wine in three separate elevations (Bajo, Medio and Superior, between 825 ft (250 m) and 2600 ft (500-800 m)). Beginning in the 1960s, the active Torres enterprise helped to revive the area, starting with experimental vineyard plantings of native, French and German varieties. They also introduced modern vinification methods and temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, with the result of clean, dependable wines in a reasonable range of prices. Many Penedès red wines are well made and well priced. Common red varietals are Garnacha, Carineña and Monastrell, with some Tempranillo (here known as Ull de Llebre) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Modern methods were also critical in sparking the region's cava (sparkling wine) industry centered around the Penedès town of San Sadurní de Noya. After old red vineyards were lost to phylloxera around the turn of the century, replanting featured white varieties that came to be most used for sparkling wines: Macabeo (Viura), Xarel-lo, Parellada, and increasingly, Chardonnay. Cavas are produced in huge quantities with automated production that allows the traditional méthode champenoise, but these sparkling wines, described as earthy, mushroomy, or rubbery in taste, have distinctly different flavors from Champagne and may be an acquired taste. The best cavas contain more chardonnay and can have notes of pear, peach and mandarin orange. For still white wines, Parellada is favored, supplemented by Riesling, Muscat of Alexandria and Chardonnay. Nearby regions have seen big changes within the last ten years and are still in the process of establishing themselves, particularly Priorat (also called Priorato) and Costers del Segre in Catalonia, and Somontano in Aragón. These areas are producing some of the most exciting wines in Spain for some time.
VALDEPEñAS
The Valdepeñas region, situated on the Meseta at an average elevation of 2,300 feet (700 m), is really a southern extension of La Mancha with a similar continental climate, but its wines are slightly more interesting and therefore have their own DO. Valdepeñas produces soft aged red wines; they are something like lesser Riojas in their characteristic vanilla flavor but still have high alcohol content (approaching 16 degrees). The classic red varietals are Tempranillo (Cencibel), Monastrel and Tintorera. The sturdy white Airén is the most planted varietal and produces ordinary quality, high alcohol white wines (13-14 degrees), and being plentiful, is often blended into lesser red wines. The results have lighter color and less body (and character) than most Tempranillo.
COSTERS DEL SEGRE
This very small area just east of Somontano is closer to the Mediterranean but receives none of its ameliorating influences. The quality producer Raimat has invested heavily in land reclamation and restoration and almost single-handedly created its modern persona. The weather is very severe, both cold and hot, in this semi-desert near the Catalan city of Lérida. With only 15 inches of rainfall annually, it has been granted an "experimental" status that allows Costers del Segre to practice limited irrigation and achieve acceptable yields. French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay have been planted as well as the native Tempranillo, Parellada (white) and Macabeo or Viura (white). The most celebrated wines are red: the Cabernet Sauvignon is earthy and highly extracted, with fine texture and black cherry fruit flavors as well as herbal, tobacco aromas; while the Tempranillo is well-rounded and lush with plum, smoke and chocolate flavors, but not as heavy as in other areas.

NAVARRA
The Navarra region borders Rioja to the northeast and southwest. It has traditionally been known for dry rosés, but is now exporting a number of slightly lighter Rioja-style wines at more moderate prices. Red varietals include Tempranillo, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Whites are the traditional Viura newly supplemented by Chardonnay.
JUMILLA
Located in the Southeastern part of the Iberian Peninsula, the Appellation of Origin Jumilla extends over a total of 42,653 hectares distributed between the provinces of Murcia and Albacete. Vinestocks are planted on limestone grounds, of characteristic off-white colour, very loose and poor in organic matters. The surface is covered with a multitude of pebbles offering a very good drainage and permeability. The climate is continental though somewhat softened by Mediterranean influence. Under these so particular and difficult conditions, the native variety Monastrell thrives in an optimal way, showing its better qualities in colour, aromas and flavours. The red Monastrell grape and the Mediterranean coast are closely linked from immemorial times. This is due to the perfect adaptation of this variety to the environment in which it has developed so shiningly during centuries. This variety, characterised by compact clusters composed of small berries and hard skins, is first mentioned in writings dating back to the XVth century. By means of maceration, Monastrell transmits to the wines the deep colour of its skins (blackish blue) and, thanks to the great maturation the fruit may attain mainly due to the generous dose of sun exposure, results into fleshy wines with high alcohol content. Mourvèdre, name given to Monastrell in France, is mainly used in the neighbouring country in blends, adding up robustness to wines. On the contrary, in Jumilla, because of the particular conditions under which it grows, it develops at present all the potential, giving as outcome great single variety wines
ALICANTE
The Appellation of Origin Alicante, located in the province with the same name, includes a total of some 15,000 hectares of vineyards divided into two sub-regions. The first one is located to the northwest of the city of Alicante, following the course of the Vinalopó river. The second sub-region, to the northeast of Alicante, counts on a much smaller extension of vineyards being tourism the main economic sector. The climate in the DO Alicante is characterized by its dryness, with little rains (300 mm to the year); short, hard winters and very warm and prolonged summers. In such and arid zone the best vineyards are oriented to the north (on the contrary to most wine regions in the world) because they allow a more calmed maturation of the grapes than those oriented towards the south. The grounds are limy and sandy, with patches of argillaceous marls and plasters in some areas. The soil fertility is generally low which, added to the extreme climate, results in limited yields. Among white varieties we can find the native Merseguera, Moscatel Romano and Macabeo, next to foreign Chardonnay and Riesling. Monastrell, Garnacha, Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet), Bobal, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Merlot are counted among the red varieties.The most famous wine and one of jewels of the DO Alicante is the Fondillón, which requires of special conditions in its processing like late harvesting of Monastrell grapes (that provides great maturity to the grapes), sun-drying of these and prolonged ageing in oak of the wine.
LA MANCHA
On the arid plains south of Madrid, La Mancha's 419,000 acres make up Europe's single largest denomination of origin, but with average annual rainfall of only 16 inches (400 mm) and typical summer temperatures rising to 104° F (40° C), yields are naturally small. La Mancha was long out of favor with connoisseurs for old-fashioned techniques that allowed wines to become oxidized before their time, but temperature control and stainless steel fermentation and earlier harvests have improved the wines. Much La Mancha wine is sold in bulk or distilled for Spanish brandy. The traditional red varietal is Tempranillo (here called Cencibel), but new plantings also include Cabernet Sauvignon. La Mancha whites are simple everyday wines, quite inexpensive, made with Airén, a native vine with extremely high drought resistance. Some Chardonnay is also being planted.
CAMPO DE BORJA
The landscape is made up of a series of high plateaus with gentile slopes, and is a little more jagged in the foothills of the Moncayo mountain range, to the west. The predominant type of soil is brown-colored, lime soil on a rather calcareous rocky ground, which has little in the way of organic matter, is healthy and offers good drainage. The wines from this region are thicker, with more body, clear-cut fruity aromas and great personality. The permited grapes are Garnacha, Tempranillo, Mazuela and Cabernet Sauvignon.
SOMONTANO
Somontano is a relatively new DO region in Aragón, in the Pyrenees foothills of northeast Spain. All of its new investment has been made since joining the European Union in 1986. The geography (about halfway between the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts) and climate --plentiful rain with moderate but sufficiently warm summer temperatures up to 95° F (35°C) -- are both promising viticulturally. A number of international and native varietal vineyards are recently planted, but thus far one cooperative produces over 80 percent of Somontano's wine. The traditional reds were Moristel (believed to be Monastrell) and Garnacha, while newer experimental vineyards now include Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and some Pinot Noir. The traditional whites Viura and Alcanón are now being supplemented by Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Gewürztraminer. Clearly the area is trying to find its true personality, and improved winemaking facilities promise some enchanting wines.
TORO
Extreme continental climate with hot, dry summers and very cold winters which are also quite dry. Little, and generally only seasonal rainfall, more plentiful in spring and autumn. Fairly smooth landscape with the area under vine between 600 and 750 meters above sea level. Solis are loose, with good drainage and easy aeration, and are sandstone based. The Tinta de Toro variety, close cousin to the Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), is the most sought after grape for those intent on quality, although there has been the odd flirtation with Cabernet Sauvignon.
VALENCIA
This area is located just west of the coastal city of Valencia in eastern Spain's region called the Levante. There are three subzones: the smallest, Alto Turia, which is situated northwest of the city of Valencia; Clariano, which is southwest of the city; and the largest area, Valentino, which includes vineyards from the former DO, Cheste, and is located directly west of the city of Valencia. The Valencia DO produces more white wines than reds or rosés. Merseguera is the most widely planted white grape, but there are a variety of others including malvasia, Planta Fina, Moscatel (muscat), and pedro ximénez. Red and rosé wines are made mainly from Bobal, blended with Garnacha (grenache), tempranillo, and monastrell.
BASQUE
The area is protected from the cold northerly winds by the coastal hills, which creates a relatively mild climate, of Atlantic influence. To avoid the problems involved with high humidity levels, the vines are placed on the slopes with the most sun, with good ventilation. The soil consists of damp. lime-rich. brown colored earth.
RíAS BAIXAS
Apart from sherry and Málaga, classic Spanish white wines have never been popular outside their own country. They tended to be oaky, high in alcohol, low acid and prematurely aged - in a word, flat. But the wines of Rías Baixas in Galicia (in addition to Penedès and a few other areas) indicate that Spanish white wines can be very different. Rías Baixas, in the extreme northwest bordering on Portugal, receives moist Atlantic breezes that give it a cool, damp Mediterranean climate. Wines here are fresh, dry and somewhat acidic. Often compared to those of the nearby Vinho Verde region of Portugal, they are significantly more interesting, and perfect for drinking with seafood and chicken dishes. The major white varietal by far is Albariño; the remaining ten percent of vineyards can contain Caiña Blanca, Treixadura, and Loureiro. The best Rías Baixas wines have floral aromas and an apricot character sometimes compared to Condrieu. Reds are not exported.
RUEDA
Just east of Ribero del Duero and running east to west on the southern bank of the Duero River, the small Rueda region has become known for some of Spain's best white wines. These are made from the native Verdejo grape, often described as "nutty" in flavor, in a less-aged modern style, and are sometimes blended with the more acidic Viura or even Sauvignon Blanc. These wines have clean, simple elegance and good fruit character, and are inexpensive enough to drink every day.
CAVA
Cava (which literally means 'cellar') is a QSWPSR quality sparkling wine produced in a specific region and made by the traditional Champagne method. In 1970, when the Spanish agreed to abandon the name 'Champagne', 'Cava' was the word used to describe the 'Champenoise' production method for wines produced within Spain by that system. The Cava DO is not restricted to one particular demarcated area. Membership of the EU required a more limiting area than the Spanish national border (to maintain QWPSR status) and so the areas listed herewith were designated as the specified regions: Barcelona, Girona, Tarragona (the three Catalan provinces account for 99% of production and 50% of consumption), Rioja, Aragón, Navarra, Álava and Extremadura. The three main varieties recommended for Cava production are Macabeo (Viura), Parellada, and Xarel.lo, - followed by Chardonnay and Subirat (Malvasía), and the red varieties Garnacha, Monastrell, Trepat and, recently, Pinot Noir for making Cava Rosado, which is usually known in Catalunya as 'Rosé'-. Most of the Cava produced in Barcelona, Tarragona and Girona uses the 'big three' grape varieties, and a typical mix might be 50% Macabeo, 30% Xarel.lo and 20% Parellada, though this can be very variable indeed, and Chardonnay often plays a part in the blend too. Indeed, nowadays, most of the larger Cava houses (such as Freixenet, Codorníu, Raimat and the like) make 100% Chardonnay version. In the other provinces (outside Catalunya) Macabeo -Viura- is the principal grape, in some cases accounting for 100%, and sometimes blended with a little Parellada or Malvasía.
RIBEIRO
The region of El Ribeiro ('O Ribeiro' in Galician language) is located in the southern part of inner Galicia, following the middle course of the river Miño, integrated in the province of Ourense and very near the Portuguese border. In the Xth century, Ribeiro was christened as the 'Land of Castles' for its numerous fortresses. The quality wines from the region, both reds and whites, are usually young (no barrel ageing), moderately acid, structured and graceful, combining exquisite fruity and floral aromas that are most of the times quite surprising.
JEREZ
Wines from Jerez, Xéres, or as they are known in English, Sherries, are in a class all their own. The special taste of a sherry is due to the unique methods that are used in the Jerez area. The main ingredient of the best sherries is the Palomino grape. A sherry is aged in loosely stoppered casks, where a special yeast growth that prevents oxidation is added, which in turn adds that special taste. Towards the end of the maturing process, the "flor" yeast, as it is called, is killed of by the addition of alcohol, and the Jerez is then moved to the "solera". The solera is a vertical row of oak casks, designed to gradually mix old wine with new one in order to achieve a consistent final product; this mastered process is used year after year. Finally, the end product to be bottled, the sherry, is drawn off from the bottom row of the casks; these are topped off with wine from the next row, and so on. What does all this mean? Well simply that if you see something of the likes of a "Solera 1856" on a bottle, this is the year the solera was originally put on line.

Naive Things